...Wait, before you think me a sot, or a mere advocate for Asian debauchery: Get Drunk in China is a terrific yet no-longer-running television show that explored the finer points of lively suppers in the Middle Kingdom. It featured an actor I know named Jimmy Taenaka, or "Jimmy T." Jimmy would pounce from city to city, joyfully investigating the local grain and fruit spirits as well as regional beers. When I told my friend and long-time China companion, Greg (happy China photo above) about the show's title and to Tivo it, he thought it was a gag. Simply brilliant title. So, I thought I would borrow it to draw your attention. Now that I have that, my friend Paul has a question that relates:
Other than the heavily marketed Tsing Tao beer, we don't get to see a lot of Chinese alcohol. What's good, and do you have any advice on what's a good compliment to my entree?
Though many folks who have been to China (even some sinophiles) would flog me for saying, there are many Chinese spirits that are perfectly suited to pair with a nice Chinese meal. Off the top of my head, I can think of two spirits that go down smoothly and compliment or follow foods ranging from tangy and sweet to hot and spicy. One is bai jiu and one is huang jiu, or white liquor and yellow liquor respectively.
Bai jiu, is primarily made from distilled sorghum. Some Chinese argue that sorghum-based bai jiu is only true bai jiu. In some Southern cities, bai jiu may be made from other grains, including rice, millet, and corn. It generally has a proof between 80 and 120 (40% and 60% alcohol). The more pleasant sips are from those of lower alcohol and therefore higher flavor and price. I could regale you with stories of the "cheap stuff" and how it encourages hopping over 9 foot University gates and lighting innocent coffee tables ablaze with elderly Japanese professors, but I digress.
Except for beer, baij jiu is the most commonly served booze across China. It is frequently mis-translated (alas, China) as white wine. This is quite often the beginning of a horrible relationship between an unsuspecting foreign guest and bai jiu. It is decidedly not wine, as we would so innocently interpret. Indeed, it is as much wine as wine is water. For most China visitors who hear "enjoy some local white wine," bai jiu is the closest thing to fire-water that one can imagine. Bam. Relationship crushed. Chinese liquor is horrible is all that remains in the mind. All because the word wine was misused and utterly abused.
I've heard bai jiu referred to with such color as "white lightning," "goddam vulgar," "why-oh-why would you do this to me," and so on. My otherwise brave buddy Greg's take is, "there are no words, maybe blech." I am here to proclaim: If one is introduced to Chinese liquors in a kinder, gentler fashion, without playing victim to the white wine phenomenon from above or a college-like dare, there can be an impending gastronomic adventure for the soul. On a related note, Taoist monks on remote Chinese mountain tops believe that bai jiu helps with immortality.
The right way to drink: I once threw a Chinese dinner party that ended with sips from a very fine bottle sent from a friend in China. My guests were surprised, generally pleased, and astounded that they had never considered Chinese spirits before. Yes, some did not like it, but then again, some of you out there have a love/hate thing with tequila, no? I believe the key to introducing a surprising liquor is to match it well with the food you're serving. This feast, in particular was full of starchy notes, corn flour, crushed rice, wheat pancakes, etc. Bai jiu, being distilled from similar grains, plays well with this set of thickening agents. It imparts an almost lightening feeling after the meal.
Huang jiu differs from bai jiu in that it is aged and primarily made from rice or wheat. Like any alcohol that is aged, sugars are given time to develop and alcohol level has time to calm down. Huang jiu, is therefore sweeter and mild in comaprison to it's "Quien Es Mas Macho?" white cousin. Huang jiu, though called yellow, typically ranges from light amber to dark rust in hue and has an alcohol content of less than 20%. Similar to western-style grape wine, huang jiu has a taste spectrum from dry to sweet. For true enthusiasts (or one who wants to pose as an enthusiast), huang jiu can be enjoyed warmed to temperatures well above room temp, say 100°F. Not unlike a snifter of cognac, warmed huang jiu will be a pleasure for the nose as well as the tongue.
Unlike bai jiu, huang jiu - specifically Chinese rice wine - has been gaining in international popularity and showing up in culinary and mixology realms of late. It has that exotic Far East appeal and in my opinion deserves a spot at the digestif menu next to the finest bottles of Napa Valley sherry and Japanese sake. China has recently become a big deal and many things authentically Chinese should be working their way into the mainstream. Two highlights: 1) My neverending quest to have you all not settle for Chinese food as simply fast, cheap, and convenient! It is an misunderstood artform, dag nabbit; and 2) Last year, a buddy of mine named Scott in Portland, Oregon started to import and sell super-fine Chinese rice wines (http://www.chinesericewine.com/). Now you don't have the can't-afford-a-plane-ticket excuse!
Paul, thanks for the question. I gave you much more than you bargained for! Though seemingly exotic, Chinese liquors are no more strange than some single malt scotches that I've enjoyed. If it's properly introduced on its own, as a part of a larger meal, I think that there is a chance that Chinese liquors will see a tremendous future in the Western world. Sort of like Japanese sake after World War II...only minus the war part!
Tune in tomorrow for the exciting conclusion of Get Drunk in China, where I give you my favorite recipe that involves Shaoxing wine as a luxurious glaze to little pork-stuffed eggplant cakes. Drool in wait.
Other than the heavily marketed Tsing Tao beer, we don't get to see a lot of Chinese alcohol. What's good, and do you have any advice on what's a good compliment to my entree?
Though many folks who have been to China (even some sinophiles) would flog me for saying, there are many Chinese spirits that are perfectly suited to pair with a nice Chinese meal. Off the top of my head, I can think of two spirits that go down smoothly and compliment or follow foods ranging from tangy and sweet to hot and spicy. One is bai jiu and one is huang jiu, or white liquor and yellow liquor respectively.
Bai jiu, is primarily made from distilled sorghum. Some Chinese argue that sorghum-based bai jiu is only true bai jiu. In some Southern cities, bai jiu may be made from other grains, including rice, millet, and corn. It generally has a proof between 80 and 120 (40% and 60% alcohol). The more pleasant sips are from those of lower alcohol and therefore higher flavor and price. I could regale you with stories of the "cheap stuff" and how it encourages hopping over 9 foot University gates and lighting innocent coffee tables ablaze with elderly Japanese professors, but I digress.
Except for beer, baij jiu is the most commonly served booze across China. It is frequently mis-translated (alas, China) as white wine. This is quite often the beginning of a horrible relationship between an unsuspecting foreign guest and bai jiu. It is decidedly not wine, as we would so innocently interpret. Indeed, it is as much wine as wine is water. For most China visitors who hear "enjoy some local white wine," bai jiu is the closest thing to fire-water that one can imagine. Bam. Relationship crushed. Chinese liquor is horrible is all that remains in the mind. All because the word wine was misused and utterly abused.
I've heard bai jiu referred to with such color as "white lightning," "goddam vulgar," "why-oh-why would you do this to me," and so on. My otherwise brave buddy Greg's take is, "there are no words, maybe blech." I am here to proclaim: If one is introduced to Chinese liquors in a kinder, gentler fashion, without playing victim to the white wine phenomenon from above or a college-like dare, there can be an impending gastronomic adventure for the soul. On a related note, Taoist monks on remote Chinese mountain tops believe that bai jiu helps with immortality.
The right way to drink: I once threw a Chinese dinner party that ended with sips from a very fine bottle sent from a friend in China. My guests were surprised, generally pleased, and astounded that they had never considered Chinese spirits before. Yes, some did not like it, but then again, some of you out there have a love/hate thing with tequila, no? I believe the key to introducing a surprising liquor is to match it well with the food you're serving. This feast, in particular was full of starchy notes, corn flour, crushed rice, wheat pancakes, etc. Bai jiu, being distilled from similar grains, plays well with this set of thickening agents. It imparts an almost lightening feeling after the meal.
Huang jiu differs from bai jiu in that it is aged and primarily made from rice or wheat. Like any alcohol that is aged, sugars are given time to develop and alcohol level has time to calm down. Huang jiu, is therefore sweeter and mild in comaprison to it's "Quien Es Mas Macho?" white cousin. Huang jiu, though called yellow, typically ranges from light amber to dark rust in hue and has an alcohol content of less than 20%. Similar to western-style grape wine, huang jiu has a taste spectrum from dry to sweet. For true enthusiasts (or one who wants to pose as an enthusiast), huang jiu can be enjoyed warmed to temperatures well above room temp, say 100°F. Not unlike a snifter of cognac, warmed huang jiu will be a pleasure for the nose as well as the tongue.
Unlike bai jiu, huang jiu - specifically Chinese rice wine - has been gaining in international popularity and showing up in culinary and mixology realms of late. It has that exotic Far East appeal and in my opinion deserves a spot at the digestif menu next to the finest bottles of Napa Valley sherry and Japanese sake. China has recently become a big deal and many things authentically Chinese should be working their way into the mainstream. Two highlights: 1) My neverending quest to have you all not settle for Chinese food as simply fast, cheap, and convenient! It is an misunderstood artform, dag nabbit; and 2) Last year, a buddy of mine named Scott in Portland, Oregon started to import and sell super-fine Chinese rice wines (http://www.chinesericewine.com/). Now you don't have the can't-afford-a-plane-ticket excuse!
Arguably, the most famous Chinese rice wine is from the town of Shaoxing and has adopted the name. In addition to being enjoyably imbibed, Shaoxing wine is also used obsessively in cooking. At the level you would find white wine being used to fortify sauces and marinades in the French kitchen, or red wine used to brighten up Italian cuisine, Shaoxing wine is seldom left lonely next to the Chinese stove. In fact, there is an entire sub-school of cookery that proudly places Drunken meats and other ingredients in center stage. As booze tends to do, Drunken marinades denature proteins and tenderize muscle tissue. This makes for faster cooking, thereby saving scant fuel resources. Shaoxing wine marinades do double duty and also impart a sweet, sometimes woody or smokey flavor to the dish.
The right way to drink: Shaoxing wine pairs excellently with earthy and seafaring flavors and those with a decidedly salty finish. The sweet notes of the rice wine provide a terrific counterpoint to balance out the palette. If I am serving a warmed bottle of Shaoxing wine to finish off a banquet, you can be sure that I also used Shaoxing as described above in the marinades and sauces. This tactic would cause a theme in the meal and make the transition to a new type of liquor almost eerily familiar.
Paul, thanks for the question. I gave you much more than you bargained for! Though seemingly exotic, Chinese liquors are no more strange than some single malt scotches that I've enjoyed. If it's properly introduced on its own, as a part of a larger meal, I think that there is a chance that Chinese liquors will see a tremendous future in the Western world. Sort of like Japanese sake after World War II...only minus the war part!
Tune in tomorrow for the exciting conclusion of Get Drunk in China, where I give you my favorite recipe that involves Shaoxing wine as a luxurious glaze to little pork-stuffed eggplant cakes. Drool in wait.
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Damn fine post. I can't wait to see and try your pork-stuffed egglant! There is a restaurant in Virgina that is creating some very cool dishes using Chinese rice wine. Check it out: www.townhouseblog.blogspot.com
ReplyDeleteThanks Howie!
Great post, brings back the memories of my only Chinese Rice Wine overload. (Thanks to you, Howie!)
ReplyDelete